Looking for Proboscis monkeys along the Brunei River - photograph Mark Malby


TRAVEL NOTES

GETTING AROUND:
Both Singapore and Royal Brunei Airlines fly direct to Bandar Seri Bagawan, starting from $500. Transport around the capital is easy with its network of ubiquitous purple buses. Ecotour companies, whether to river or jungle, arrange their own transport to sites.

STAY:
Accommodation in Brunei ranges from the palatial Empire Hotel & Country Club ($250-$2200) with its 5-storey lobby, immense grounds, and private cinema, all the way to backpacker rustic ($16). Mid-range hotels like the Terrace or Jubilee ($50) offer basic in-town comforts. For a more unusual experience, stay in Kampung Ayer and hail water taxis to town. Hotel space is often available in Brunei, but for peace of mind sites check sites like TripAdvisor.com for latest reviews and deals. 

WILDLIFE CHECKLIST:
River & Mangroves: Proboscis monkeys, white egrets, mudskippers, water monitor, flying foxes, saltwater crocodiles
Rainforests: Borneo gibbon, sunbear, orangutan, clouded leopard, mousedeer, king cobra, reticulated python, banded langurs, wild boar, black scorpion, barking deer, hornbill, pitcher plant.